旅の案内 · Guide to Japan

Japan in November

For those of you who are traveling from afar to be with us, we hope you will be able to reserve some time to explore what Japan has to offer. We put this guide together just for that reason.

Japan has so much to see and do that it is impossible to do everything in one visit. Find what pulls you in, do a little digging, and build the trip that fits your timeline. These are our honest, opinionated notes—take what is useful and ignore the rest.

Snow-capped Mount Fuji framed by vivid red and orange maple leaves across Lake Kawaguchiko.
Weather
Crisp 50s–low 60s; 40s mornings and evenings
Sunset
Around 4:30–4:45pm
Koyo
Peak fall-color season
Mt. Fuji
Some of the clearest views of the year

Why November works

November is among the driest, clearest, most comfortable months. Expect blue-sky days in the 50s and low 60s °F, mornings and evenings in the 40s, and layers plus a light jacket rather than a heavy coat.

You are arriving in peak koyo. The fall colors are more vivid than anything we have seen in the US, while cold, dry air brings some of the clearest Mt. Fuji views of the year.

Follow the November light. Plan outdoor sightseeing for mornings and early afternoons. After the 4:30–4:45pm sunset, switch to dinner, neon-lit neighborhoods, and winter illuminations, which begin appearing across the country in mid-November.
Typical fall-color timing on the likely route
WhereNoteUsual peak
TokyoCity parks & gardensMid–late November into early December
KyotoThe famous temples peak in late NovemberMid-November–early December
HakoneMountain foliageLate October–mid-November
Mt. Fuji / Lake KawaguchikoOur wedding locationEarly–mid November

If you ask us

Our recommendation

Every trip will look a little different, but the shape is simple: anchor on Tokyo and the wedding, then give whatever time remains to Kyoto and Osaka.

With one weekLand in Tokyo, take it in slowly, and let the wedding weekend cap the trip. You can also do this in reverse if you’re arriving right before the wedding!
With two weeksKeep the same start, then head west and spend the remainder in Kyoto and Osaka, fitting in day trips as they call to you. This order works the best geographically but again, you can reorder depending on your arrival date.

Before you go

A little planning pays off

Japan rewards advance planning more than almost anywhere we have traveled—mostly because the good stuff books up.

01Two to three months out

  • Passport, flights, hotels

    Check that your passport and visas are valid through the trip; book flights and hotels, including at least one night at a ryokan.

  • Check your medications

    Japan bans some common US medicines: pseudoephedrine decongestants (regular Sudafed) and ADHD stimulants like Adderall, prescription or not. Vyvanse and more than a month's supply of many prescriptions need an import certificate that takes weeks, so check yours early.

    Check Japan's medicine rules

  • Dinner reservations

    Book ahead

    Start with the restaurants you care about. Windows typically open 30–60 days ahead; find each opening date and set a reminder.

  • Timed attractions

    Book ahead

    Book teamLab, Shibuya Sky, the Sagano Romantic Train, Rurikoin, and Universal Studios as their windows open.

02One month out

  • Shinkansen seats

    Book ahead

    Reservations generally open one month ahead and advance tickets are cheaper. Choose the Mt. Fuji side and reserve oversized-luggage seats if needed; wrestle with the Japanese booking site from your couch, not a station.

  • Visit Japan Web

    Enter immigration and customs information and get an arrival QR code; it saves real time at the airport.

    Set up Visit Japan Web
03One to two weeks out

  • Data

    Set up an eSIM (we use Airalo) unless your phone plan includes international data.

  • Suica

    Use this tap-to-pay transit card for trains, convenience stores, Starbucks, groceries, and more. iPhone users can add Suica in Apple Wallet (Wallet → + → Transit Card → Suica); most US Android phones cannot run Mobile Suica, so pick up a physical Welcome Suica at the airport.

  • Useful apps

    Download Google Maps, Google Translate with the Japanese offline pack, and the GO taxi app.

  • Cards

    Bring a Visa or Mastercard with no foreign transaction fees. Plenty of card-taking places do not accept AMEX.

04What to pack

  • Walking shoes

    Your comfiest pair: 15,000–20,000 steps a day is completely normal.

  • Layers

    Pack for crisp days and chilly mornings and evenings; a light jacket beats a heavy coat.

  • Coin pouch

    Coins pile up and remain useful for vending machines, lockers, and all sorts of small purchases.

  • Water bottle

    Restaurant water pours tend to be tiny, so a reusable bottle earns its luggage space.

  • Plug check

    US two-prong Type A plugs work with Japan’s 100V outlets; three-prong plugs need a cheap adapter.

Passports and travel tickets arranged on a map beside a vintage camera.
JR East station gates with illuminated IC card readers and Japanese platform signs.
A compact overnight bag packed with folded layers and travel essentials.

The essentials

Know before you go

Pedestrians crossing a neon-lit Tokyo street on a rainy evening.

  • A little Japanese goes a long way

    Very few people speak English, and even those who do may prefer not to. Learn a handful of phrases and use Google Translate when needed. Most signs are in English and tourist areas are well prepared for foreigners.

  • Follow the rules

    Japan is very rule-oriented: people even wait at an empty red crosswalk. Be on time—not early or late—and be polite, like a guest in someone else’s home. Foreigners get a free pass on most things.

  • Expect a price dichotomy

    Most things feel remarkably cheap compared with the US, while taxis, fancy fruit, Kobe beef, and nice hotels can get fairly pricey. Overall, your money goes surprisingly far.

  • Shop tax-free; carry your passport

    Most stores return the tax at the register, but you need your actual physical passport. Bring it on days when you may do real shopping.

  • Almost no trash cans

    Carry your trash until you find one. Konbini—7-Eleven, Lawson, and FamilyMart—are reliable places to dispose of it. Somehow the country remains spotless.

  • Two restaurant quirks

    Water rarely appears unless you ask, and it comes in a tiny cup. If you take milk or cream in coffee, ask for extra; the default pour is comically small.

Getting around

Getting around

A modern shinkansen waiting at a station platform.

  • Fly into Haneda if you can

    Both Tokyo airports work, but Haneda sits about 30 minutes from the center while Narita is its own 60–90 minute leg by express train or limousine bus. Prefer Haneda when fares are close, and budget the extra time if you land at Narita.

  • Google Maps is your friend

    It is accurate for navigating Japan and tells you which numbered station exit to use—which matters more than you would think.

  • Giant stations need buffer time

    Major stations are extremely large and genuinely confusing, sometimes with 50 numbered exits and multiple separate train systems. A transfer can mean leaving one system and entering another without going outdoors. Leave time to get lost once or twice.

  • Book the big train trips at home

    Book ahead

    Buy city-to-city tickets such as Tokyo → Kyoto online before the trip; it is cheaper and avoids Japanese booking sites on vacation. Buy or tap Suica for local subways and short hops as you go.

From station entry to luggage delivery

  1. Find the right exit

    Use the numbered exit in Google Maps before leaving a large station.

  2. Tap in

    Use Suica for local trains, subways, and small everyday purchases.

  3. Take the Fuji side

    Reserve the right side toward Kyoto and the left side toward Tokyo.

  4. Send the suitcase

    Forward the large bag and carry one compact overnight bag.

  • Ride the shinkansen at least once

    Book ahead

    It is the way to make big hops such as Tokyo–Kyoto. Reserve ahead if the Mt. Fuji view matters to you; November’s clear-view odds are excellent.

  • Skip the JR Pass

    Old-school advice says get the Japan Rail Pass; after its 2023 price hike it almost never pays off on a Tokyo–Kyoto–Osaka trip. Point-to-point tickets are the cheaper, simpler move.

  • Kyoto ↔ Osaka, the scenic way

    Book ahead

    The plush Aoniyoshi sightseeing train runs among Kyoto, Nara, and Osaka and is worth taking for the experience. Book it in advance.

  • Taxis in moderation

    They are readily available but pricey, so default to walking and trains and use taxis strategically to save time and feet. GO works well. Drivers’ GPS can be charmingly old-school, making rides longer than Google estimates, and there is no Uber-style rideshare—every ride is an official taxi.

  • Trains stop around midnight

    The rail network sleeps from roughly midnight until 5am—there is no all-night subway. Out late in Shinjuku or Dotonbori, check your last train in Google Maps; missing it means a long, surcharged taxi ride home.

The Fuji side of the shinkansen: sit on the right side heading to Kyoto/Osaka and the left side heading back to Tokyo. Reserve if the view matters.

Only-in-Japan favorites

Experiences worth building around

A traditional Japanese tea ceremony setting with a kettle and cups.

  • Stay at a ryokan for a night

    A traditional inn is worth choosing over the familiar international brands for one night. Styles and prices vary widely; dinner and breakfast are generally included and often spectacular multi-course affairs. Many have onsen.

  • Go to an onsen

    This natural hot-spring bath is one of our favorite experiences in Japan, and you can visit one at our wedding hotel. Public baths are gender-separated, everyone is naked, and phones stay away. Private baths can be rented by the hour or built into nicer ryokan rooms. Find an outdoor rotenburo for steaming water in cool November air. For a public bath, watch an etiquette video beforehand—there are real rules and no phone inside to check them. If you have tattoos, check the bath’s policy first: many public baths still turn away visible ink. Small pieces hide under cover stickers—Don Quijote sells them—and a private bath sidesteps the question entirely.

An outdoor stone hot-spring bath surrounded by autumn foliage.
A tatami ryokan room prepared with a low table and floor cushions.

  • Go to a wet head spa

    Japan has spas devoted entirely to the head and scalp. Dry and wet versions are both great, but choose wet if you must pick. The temperature-change wizardry is among the most relaxing things we have experienced; a good one costs a decent chunk and is 100% worth it.

A guest receiving a wet Japanese head-spa treatment.

  • Wander a giant Don Quijote

    Try a large Tokyo or Osaka branch: Amazon in real life, with nearly everything, usually cheap, and tax-free buying in-store. Even navigating it without buying anything is an experience.

  • Animal cafés

    Order a drink and spend time with the residents. We have enjoyed cat cafés; dog, hedgehog, mini pig, otter, and owl versions also exist if you go looking.

Eating & drinking

Your guide to picking restaurants

Sushi chefs preparing an omakase meal across a wooden counter.
How to read TabelogJapan’s Yelp-like ratings use a tougher scale than US apps. Our first 4.0+ meal became one of the most memorable of our lives.
  1. 3.0good
  2. 3.5excellent
  3. 4.0exceptional, rare, and genuinely difficult to book
  • Yakiniku / wagyu
  • Yakitori
  • Tonkatsu
  • Kaiten sushi
  • Japanese fruit
  • Kakigori
  • Japanese whisky

  • Restaurants specialize

    Menus are not diverse in the US sense: you choose what you are eating when you choose the restaurant. Many are course-based. The quality bar runs high from vending-machine-ticket ramen counters to Michelin stars.

  • Reserve what matters most

    Book ahead

    Top places combine tiny seating counts with huge demand, confusing sites, and fierce competition; popular no-reservation spots mean a line. Lock in dinners for the food you care most about, then leave other meals for casual finds. We prioritize teppanyaki, yakitori, tonkatsu, and yakiniku because we love meat—make the list your own.

  • Try kaiten sushi

    Order on a tablet and watch your choices arrive by conveyor belt. It sounds gimmicky; the sushi is actually really good. Omakase is the fancy chef-decides-everything alternative, but can overwhelm anyone who does not want a large range of fish.

Marbled wagyu slices cooking on a tabletop hot-stone grill.
Japanese strawberries and fruit-filled sweets arranged at a market stall.
A tall bowl of matcha kakigori streaked with green tea syrup.
Vintage Japanese whisky bottles line the shelves of a warmly lit Tokyo bar.

  • Look for the Kobe stamp

    Kobe is a specific wagyu from a specific breed, not a synonym for all Japanese beef. It is pricey and the best steak either of us has had. Omi and Matsusaka are other premium types—we have tried all three and found them fairly indistinguishable—but Kobe is easiest on a tourist route. Teppanyaki is ideal. Look for the official stamp: a small golden cow statue proving legitimacy.

  • Take Japanese fruit seriously

    Fruit is sold in grades; the top ones are pricey and worth trying once. Find beautifully packed fruit in supermarkets, department-store basements, and stations. Premium strawberries arrive toward winter at roughly ¥1,000–1,500 for six (about $10). We can barely eat strawberries at home now. Also try Shine Muscat grapes, muskmelon, apples, and mikan.

  • Try kakigori

    Japanese shaved ice is way better than versions we have tried elsewhere. It comes in every flavor; green tea is the classic.

  • Explore Japanese whisky by the pour

    Bottles can oddly cost more in Japan than in the US, but bar and restaurant pours are much cheaper. Try Yamazaki, Hakushu, and Hibiki. Distillery tours use a lottery that requires applying months ahead.

City 01

Tokyo

Tokyo’s scale makes NYC feel small. A single neighborhood can fill half or all of a day, so do not check off everything—pick what sounds like you.

Tokyo Tower rising above the city skyline.
Tokyo, one neighborhood at a time. Use this rough field guide to group your days, rather than trying to cross the whole city between stops.
  1. Shinjuku
  2. Shibuya / Harajuku
  3. Tokyo Station
  4. Ginza
  5. Akihabara
  6. Asakusa

Things to see · in no particular order

  • Shibuya & Shibuya Crossing

    Explore the neighborhood and see the crossing at full chaos. The huge Tower Records supplies ’90s nostalgia.

  • Shibuya Sky

    Book ahead

    The open-air deck above the crossing reveals Tokyo’s immense scale. Buy early; popular slots sell out. Arrive about an hour before sunset—mid-afternoon in November—for daylight, sunset, and night.

  • Harajuku

    A great neighborhood for shopping and restaurants.

  • Shinjuku

    Night

    Go when the neon and nightlife are fully lit.

  • Senso-ji Temple (Asakusa)

    Arrive in late afternoon while the shopping street is open, then stay for the illuminated temple and pagoda.

Pedestrians crossing Shibuya beneath bright screens at dusk.
Senso-ji’s five-story pagoda framed by autumn trees in warm late-afternoon light.
Pedestrians crossing a neon-lit Tokyo street on a rainy evening.

  • teamLab Planets

    Book ahead

    The immersive art exhibit lives up to its Instagram fame and takes about two hours; tickets are required in advance. The newer teamLab Borderless also gets great reports, though we have not done it yet.

  • Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building

    Walk-in

    A free Shinjuku-area observation deck with no advance ticket. We think Shibuya Sky is much better, but the price is right.

  • Imperial Palace

    Skip the formal tours; walk the grounds and enormous park when the light is good.

  • Tokyo Station

    Enormous enough to be a destination, with lots of shopping inside and a facade beautifully lit at night.

  • Tsukiji Outer Market

    Graze through the stalls at lunch. It occupies the old fish-market site, so the seafood is famously fresh.

  • Ginza

    Optional

    Tokyo’s luxury shopping district; an easy time-saving skip if luxury shopping is not your thing.

  • Akihabara

    Optional

    A must for video-game or anime fans, and an easy skip for everyone else.

  • Tokyo Tower

    Do not bother going up. See it from nearby and visit the lovely Zojo-ji temple.

  • Tokyo Disney Resort

    Optional

    We have not visited, but it supposedly has some of the best Disney parks anywhere—especially DisneySea—if that is your thing.

Where to eat · the must-gos

Food quality is high almost everywhere, but a few high-end experiences truly stand out. These are those.

  • Yoroniku Ebisu

    Book ahead

    Yakiniku (Japanese BBQ), and perhaps our single favorite restaurant in Japan. Choose the course with the gyukatsu sando. Reservations are required and semi-hard to get.

    Book Yoroniku Ebisu

  • Hikiniku to Come

    Book ahead

    Must-go, very affordable hamburg steak. Reservations are required. Also in Kyoto if that suits your route better.

    Book Hikiniku to Come

  • Kaiten Sushi Ginza Onodera

    Walk-in

    The conveyor-belt offshoot of a famous Michelin-starred omakase house. If you do one kaiten sushi in Japan, make it this one. Walk-in. Also in Kyoto.

Also excellent

  • Tonkatsu Narikura

    Book ahead

    A fried-pork-cutlet course; reservations are required and hard to get.

  • Torisho Ishii Hina

    Book ahead

    Yakitori omakase; reservations are required and semi-hard to get.

  • Seirinkan

    Walk-in

    Famous Tokyo-style pizza honestly comparable with Rome. Walk-in, but expect a line.

  • Ginza Katsukami

    Another great tonkatsu course menu.

  • Bar Centifolia

    Book ahead

    The viral bartender’s wild cocktail performance is the point—and a great show. Reservations open 2–3 weeks ahead and disappear immediately.

City 02

Kyoto

The former capital is Japan’s historical heart: temples, shrines, and old streets. The supply is effectively endless, so research and choose what calls to you. The single biggest tip: reach major sights as early as possible. Crowds get intense.

Kinkaku-ji framed by red autumn leaves beneath a clear blue sky in Kyoto.
A Kyoto day from dawn to illumination

  1. Start before the crowds

    Use the early light for temples, gates, and old streets.

  2. Wander through the day

    Choose one area and leave time for the streets between the major sights.

  3. Stay for illumination

    Reserve a special evening viewing when autumn temples light their gardens.

    A Kyoto temple illuminated beside red autumn foliage at night.

Things to see · in no particular order

  • Gion

    The famous historic district is wonderful for photos and shopping. Nearby Yasaka Pagoda looks unreal at sunrise and sunset.

  • Kiyomizu-dera Temple

    Early

    A hillside temple with a huge wooden stage and great surrounding streets. It gets especially busy, so go early.

  • Fushimi Inari

    Early

    Thousands of red gates and an optional full hike to the top; you do not have to finish it. Go early.

A path of closely spaced vermilion torii gates at Fushimi Inari.

  • Kinkaku-ji

    The Golden Pavilion, surrounded by a beautiful park.

  • Arashiyama

    Early

    Spend a day 30–45 minutes from the center with the bamboo forest, river and bridge, and monkey park. Get an early start.

  • Sagano Romantic Sightseeing Train

    Book ahead

    A scenic Arashiyama train that runs most of the year but not winter, especially gorgeous in fall. Book when tickets release and try for open-air car 5, “The Rich”—no glass, and naturally everyone wants it.

Tall bamboo trunks rising into the green canopy in Arashiyama.

  • Rurikoin

    Book ahead

    Polished tables beside corner windows reflect the garden like an infinity pool. Yes, it became an Instagram thing; it is still worth it. Peak fall requires advance tickets.

  • Uji

    Optional

    A scenic town south of Kyoto, supposedly matcha’s birthplace. Byodo-in is gorgeous and appears on the ¥10 coin, but this is probably not a first-visit priority unless something specific draws you.

Where to eat

  • Mouriya Gion

    Book ahead

    Kobe beef; reservation required.

  • Kaiten Sushi Ginza Onodera Kyoto

    The same conveyor-belt standout recommended in Tokyo.

  • Sen no Kaze

    Walk-in

    Ramen; walk-in.

  • Hikiniku to Come Kyoto

    The same must-go hamburg steak as in Tokyo.

  • Yusaitei

    Book ahead

    An izakaya-style assortment of great dishes in a fun atmosphere; reservation required.

City 03

Osaka

Think smaller-scale Tokyo, famous for food and personality. There is not a ton of traditional sightseeing, so one or two days is typical—but it is fantastic for eating your way through and catching up on shopping.

Neon billboards reflected in the Dotonbori canal at night in Osaka.
A vendor preparing Osaka street food on a hot griddle.

Things to do · in no particular order

  • Dotonbori

    The famous neon canal district with the Glico running man sign from all the photos. Endless food. There’s also a huge Don Quijote here if you haven’t experienced one yet.

  • Tsutenkaku & around

    Similar retro-neon energy, different sights, and lots more food.

  • Umeda Sky Building

    The best city view in Osaka. Tickets are needed but easy to get.

  • A food tour

    Osaka is the right city for sampling many dishes and meeting other travelers.

  • teamLab Botanical Garden

    Optional

    The outdoor cousin of Tokyo’s exhibits. Pick Tokyo if choosing one; worthwhile if you love them.

  • Universal Studios Japan

    Book ahead

    We have not visited, but it is famous for Super Nintendo World if you are into that. Tickets in advance.

Day trips & farther afield

More Japan

Six memorable detours

  1. Hokkaido
  2. Nagano
  3. Hakone
  4. Nara
  5. Kobe
  6. Hiroshima / Miyajima

  • Hakone

    Possible as a Tokyo day trip, but we stayed one night and recommend it. This mountain area has onsen, Fuji views, lovely ryokan, and the “Hakone loop”: cable car, ropeway, and lake crossing on a pirate ship—yes, a pirate ship. November combines foliage with clear-air Fuji views.

  • Nara

    An easy Kyoto or Osaka day trip. Free-roaming deer literally bow when fed; animal lovers will delight, and the park also has beautiful temples.

  • Kobe

    Optional

    We day-tripped from Osaka specifically to eat Kobe beef in Kobe and valued the story. Real Kobe beef exists in every major city, so skip this unless the idea means something to you.

A deer beneath a torii gate surrounded by autumn leaves.
Autumn forest across Lake Ashi beside Hakone’s red torii.

  • Hiroshima & Miyajima

    Hiroshima has a deeply moving museum dedicated to the WWII atomic bombing. Nearby Miyajima has beautiful temples and the famous “floating” torii gate.

  • Hokkaido

    Japan’s northern island offers mountains, incredible food, world-class winter skiing, and summer flower fields—a good destination almost any time of year.

  • Snow monkeys (Nagano)

    A winter-specific Tokyo day trip to wild monkeys lounging in natural hot springs. Experience warns us: the approach is a 45-minute hike on snowy, slippery trails, so bring real footwear. Highly prefer an organized Tokyo bus tour over the train-and-bus combination.

If you come back

Japan by season

  • Spring · March/April

    Cherry blossoms make this the most popular season, but many travelers cross the world and miss them: bloom windows are short, regional, hard to predict, and worsening with climate change. Arrive near the estimate and stay flexible enough to chase the bloom. Plum blossoms can start in mid-February and be just as beautiful with a fraction of the crowds.

  • Winter · mid-December through February

    Underrated and blissfully uncrowded. Main tourist areas remain fairly mild (40s–50s) and dry. There are no blossoms or foliage, but nearly everything else remains possible, plus snow monkeys, world-class Hokkaido skiing, and peak strawberry season.

  • Summer

    Every single person we have asked says the same thing: don’t. It is extremely hot and humid, with downpours that can wreck outdoor plans—and it intensifies every year.